Split, Croatia

A city born of an emperor’s dream—and still reigning in beauty.

Set on the dazzling Dalmatian coast, Split is a place where ancient stones meet the pulse of the present. It’s not just built around a Roman palace—it is a Roman palace. And yet, this city is no museum. It’s alive. Radiating sun-warmed charm, a coastal rhythm and a kind of weathered grace that only grows more captivating with time.

“Split is a place that doesn’t age—it evolves, stone by stone, smile by smile.”

— Anonymous

A historic cityscape featuring ancient stone buildings, a tall bell tower, and a cobblestone street at sunset.

Highlights

Split is a city where the ancient and the modern live side by side. At its heart stands Diocletian’s Palace, a Roman emperor’s 4th-century retreat that today hums with cafés, shops and everyday life. Here, history isn’t preserved behind glass—it’s alive in vaulted cellars, sunlit courtyards and stone alleys filled with music and laughter.

Step beyond the palace walls and the Adriatic opens wide. The city’s waterfront promenade, the Riva, is the place to stroll, sip coffee and watch the world go by. Markets brim with fresh produce and handmade goods, while nearby Marjan Hill offers sweeping views of the coastline and islands beyond.

Split’s magic lies in its blend of contrasts: Roman ruins and buzzing nightlife, sacred cathedrals and sandy beaches, old-world charm and a youthful, vibrant energy. It’s not just a stop along the Adriatic—it’s a city that feels fully alive, inviting you to experience both its history and its heartbeat.

A coastal cityscape with historic buildings, orange rooftops, a waterfront promenade, yachts in the harbor, surrounded by greenery and mountains in the background under a blue sky.

Riva Promenade

Just beyond the palace walls, Split opens onto the Riva—a sun-soaked promenade that has been the city’s living room for centuries. Fringed with palm trees and lined with cafés, it’s the place where locals gather for morning coffee, families stroll in the evening breeze and visitors pause to watch ferries and fishing boats drift across the Adriatic.

By day, the Riva hums with energy: the chatter of open-air terraces, the aroma of strong espresso and the rhythm of musicians playing along the waterfront. By night, it transforms into a glowing stage, the marble paving reflecting soft light from lanterns and the sea. More than a walkway, the Riva is the pulse of Split—a place where history meets leisure and where every step feels like you’re part of the city’s story.

Ancient Roman architectural ruins with columns, arches, and stairs in an open courtyard, under a blue sky with clouds.

Peristyle Square

At the heart of Diocletian’s Palace lies Peristyle Square, a grand courtyard that once served as the emperor’s ceremonial court. Flanked by marble colonnades and crowned with a view of the cathedral’s bell tower, it is one of the most striking remnants of Roman architecture in the Adriatic. For centuries, this was the stage where power, religion and daily life all converged.

Today, the Peristyle is still a gathering place—alive with music, open-air cafés and the footsteps of travelers tracing history. By day, its pale stones gleam in the sun as tour guides weave stories of emperors and saints. By night, the square transforms into a theater under the stars, with klapa singers filling the air and lantern light glinting off polished marble. More than a monument, Peristyle Square is the living heart of Split—where 1,700 years of history breathe alongside the city’s vibrant present.

Interior view of the Roman National Museum, showing ancient brick and stone walls with arched openings, and a group of visitors through the entrance with a clear blue sky overhead.

Diocletian’s Palace

At the heart of Split stands one of the most extraordinary Roman sites in the world—Diocletian’s Palace. Built at the turn of the 4th century as a seaside retreat for the emperor Diocletian, it was no ordinary residence. Equal parts imperial villa and military fortress, the palace was constructed of massive limestone blocks hauled from nearby quarries and marble imported from across the empire.

Over time, the walls meant to protect a single ruler became the foundation of an entire city. Today, shops, cafés and homes are woven into its ancient corridors. The Peristyle Square, once a ceremonial court, now hosts performances under the stars. The vast substructures, hidden below ground for centuries, give a rare glimpse into Roman engineering at its finest.

Sunlight filtering through trees onto a set of concrete stairs in a forested park, with a person walking up the stairs and a green park bench on the right side.

Marjan Hill

Rising just beyond Split’s center, Marjan Hill is the city’s natural escape—pine forests, rocky trails and panoramic views that stretch from the rooftops of the Old Town to the islands scattered across the Adriatic. Often called “the lungs of Split,” it has been a place of refuge since ancient times, dotted with medieval chapels, hermit caves and quiet overlooks where time seems to stand still.

Climb to one of its stone terraces and the reward is unforgettable: the terracotta sea of rooftops below, Diocletian’s Palace at the heart and the endless blue horizon beyond. Whether you hike, cycle, or simply wander through the shade of its cypress and pine, Marjan offers a different side of Split—peaceful, timeless and deeply connected to the land and sea that define the city.

Outdoor market with fresh peaches, tomatoes, and leafy greens, with vendors and customers shopping.

Split Market (Pazar)

Just outside the eastern walls of Diocletian’s Palace, Split’s daily market—known as Pazar—has been the city’s pantry for centuries. From dawn until afternoon, stalls overflow with the colors and scents of Dalmatia: sun-ripened tomatoes, figs and olives, fresh-caught fish, wild herbs and wheels of local cheese. The air hums with the rhythm of bargaining voices and the aroma of grilled bread and strong coffee drifting from nearby cafés.

Pazar isn’t just a place to shop—it’s a window into daily life. Locals fill their baskets, greet neighbors and share stories across counters piled high with produce. Visitors are welcomed with the same warmth, often urged to sample fruit still warm from the sun. Whether you come for the flavors, the bustle, or the sheer authenticity, Split’s market is where the city reveals itself most honestly—vibrant, generous and alive.

Dave Koz in a well-lit hotel lobby or lounge area, wearing a white t-shirt and jeans, smiling at the camera.

Why I Love Split

White cursive signature of Dave Koz on a black background.

Split surprised—and stayed with me. There’s something deeply moving about walking through a Roman emperor’s palace that still holds so much of everyday life. I love getting lost in its narrow stone streets, hearing local musicians echo through Peristyle Square and watching the light shift across the rooftops at golden hour.

And the waterfront? Magic. Sitting by the Riva with a glass of Croatian wine, watching boats drift and time slow down—it’s the kind of moment that makes you want to write a song.

This city doesn’t just show you history—it lets you live inside it.